Chapter 8

Night, Rain, and Cold

If you use your bicycle for transportation, sooner or later you’ll find that you have to ride at night or in unfavorable weather. Though statistical studies show that it is more dangerous to ride under these conditions, they also show that the overall crash rate for bicyclists who ride regardless of weather is lower than that for bicyclists who ride only on fine days. Skill and correct equipment make it easy to ride with confidence.

Night Riding

To ride at night, you need lights. Even when streetlights show you the way, you need lights so other people can see you.

A white headlight is essential; it identifies the front of all vehicles. A bicycle is always required by law to have a headlight at night. A front reflector, such as those sold on new bicycles, is not sufficient.

A red taillight may be required, though in some places a rear reflector is permitted as a substitute. It’s a good idea to use both. Additional reflectors and light-colored or reflective clothing are also highly recommended.

Types of Bicycle Lights

Three major types of lights are available for bicycles: small battery lights, high-powered battery lights, and generator systems. Choose your lights depending on where you ride.

Small battery lights are most useful for riding under streetlights, but powerful battery lights are best for riding on dark roads. With the dominance of light-emitting diodes (LEDs) in bicycle lights, battery life has become less of an issue. Rechargeable batteries cut the cost of operating your lights; some lights are sold with them.

A good generator system is not as bright as the brightest battery lights, but it is the best choice if you are going to ride long distances where you cannot purchase or recharge batteries. Most generator systems go dark when you stop riding, a disadvantage in stop-and-go city riding; some have a backup power source that keeps them lighted when you stop. A generator built into the bicycle’s front hub is more reliable and efficient than one that rolls on the tire.

A properly aimed headlight mounted on the bicycle can be bright enough to light the road or path without blinding people, a risk with a bright helmet-mounted light. A taillight is also best mounted on the bicycle and should be aimed level. There is no way reliably to aim a taillight mounted on helmet, backpack, or clothing. A flashing headlight won’t light your way, and can be distracting or disorienting to some people, or even trigger seizures.

When riding at night, it’s a good idea to carry spare batteries for your lights, and spare bulbs for incandescent lights, or you can simply carry a battery light as a spare to get you home in case your main lighting system fails.

Using Reflectors

Don’t ride at night without a rear reflector, and pedal reflectors or reflective ankle bands. Make sure that your reflectors aren’t obscured by baggage or dirt. Reflectors only look bright for the driver of a vehicle whose headlights are aimed at you. They usually work well for drivers approaching from behind you. Reflectors also continue to work if your taillight has quit, or if you’re stopped and your generator lights go out.

Be sure to aim your rear reflector directly back. If it’s tilted up or down, it may not work at all. Rear reflectors sold on new bicycles are not as effective as they could be, with only one of three small panels reflecting directly to the rear. A large, amber automotive reflector is much brighter directly behind you where it’s needed most.

Most bicycle shops carry reflective leg bands, vests, and windbreakers, as well as adhesive-backed strips of reflective material for the bicycle frame, fenders, and helmet. Reflective patches on the backs of your gloves make a flashing turn signal when you rotate your wrist. Some of the better gloves are ready-made with these.

Reflectors facing all directions offer reasonable protection when you are stopped and a generator light goes out – but are no substitute for a headlight when you are moving. Pedestrians stepping off the sidewalk in front of you have no headlights and won’t see your reflectors. Motorists pulling out of side streets ahead of you also won’t see your reflectors, because their headlights are aimed straight ahead – across the road in front of you.

Night-riding Tactics

When riding at night, you can’t see drivers inside their cars to make eye contact, but you can flash your headlight at them by twitching the handlebars or turning your head with a helmet-mounted light. Flash your headlight when you need to get someone’s attention.

In some cities, the risk of night-time theft and physical attack in dark, empty places like parks, pedestrian overpasses and industrial areas is generally greater than the risk of crashes on streets. Choose routes accordingly.

Rural riding at night is the most demanding of your equipment and technique. Most lights are not bright enough to allow you to ride downhill at full speed on an unlighted road. Stay within the limitations of your lights.

Narrow, shoulderless rural roads with moderate to heavy traffic have a bad record for nighttime bicycle crashes. On the other hand, quiet rural roads can be very pleasant to ride at night. Just be sure that your headlight is powerful enough to show you the way, and your taillight and reflectors are sufficient to alert overtaking motorists.

At night there are generally fewer drivers on the roads; but of these drivers, a much larger percentage are drunk drivers. A useful trick on an unlighted road is to look at your shadow as a car approaches from behind. If the shadow moves to the right, the car is passing to your left.

Test your nighttime equipment: Have someone ride your bike past you at night, and observe it from a motor vehicle to see how well your lights and reflectors work.

Riding in Wet Weather

Riding in wet weather can be miserable, but if you equip yourself well, you can stay comfortable.

Many bicyclists carry no wet-weather gear, and they get soaked. Some bicyclists try to use rain gear borrowed from the coat rack at home. Long raincoats and ponchos tangle with the spokes or frame. A hood is dangerous, because it can block your view when you turn your head. Rubberized rain suits can get as wet inside as out, because they don’t let perspiration evaporate.

A bicyclist’s rain cape is a fine solution, along with fenders on your bike. The rain cape is like a poncho but tailored to fit you in your riding position on the bicycle. It’s small and light to carry, and relatively inexpensive to buy. It has loops at the front, which you can hook over your thumbs or brake levers, extending forward like a little tent. A waist strap holds down the back of the cape. The cape should be bright yellow, to make you more visible to drivers.

The rain cape allows ventilation underneath, and so it’s the best solution on a warm, rainy day. But you also need a pair of full-length fenders on your bicycle with a front mudflap extending nearly to the ground. These keep dirty water and mud off you and your bicycle. Shoe covers will keep your feet dry, and a helmet cover will keep your head dry.

High-tech rain suits of breathable fabric can also do the job, especially when equipped with vents to allow for cooling. Many have reflective stripes to enhance your visibility. You still should use fenders to keep road dirt off yourself and your bicycle.

In a warm rain, you can wear rubber sandals without socks and put your socks on when you reach your destination. Special sandals are available for clip-in pedals. You could even wear a swimsuit, and pack your normal clothing in a plastic bag to change into when you arrive.

Your riding technique needs some modification in wet weather. Rim brakes work poorly if the bicycle has steel rims – stopping distances may be increased by 10 times. It helps to wipe the rims dry by applying the brakes in advance, well before you need to stop.

Aluminum rims or a hub brake improve wet-weather braking, and are advisable if you ride much in wet weather. Check with your bike shop about the best choice.

In the rain, pay special attention to metal surfaces such as manhole covers or steel-grid bridge decks, painted traffic markings, wet leaves, and oil slicks. They’re all especially slippery. Avoid riding through puddles if you can’t see the bottom – a puddle can hide a pothole.

When you get home, it’s a good idea to relubricate your bicycle’s chain to help prevent rust.

Winter

Cold weather isn’t all bad. Falling snow does not get you wet like rain. The exercise of cycling keeps you warm, and unless you are overdressed you can ride fast without getting sweaty. Dress in layers like a cross-country skier, so you can adjust your clothing as needed. With a little experience you’ll find that you can start out a little cool and will quickly warm up to a comfortable temperature.

When temperatures are below freezing, your feet, hands, and face are the hardest parts to keep comfortable. Two pairs of wool socks, and shoe covers, work for your feet, or you could wear hiking boots or mountain-biking boots designed for clipless pedals. Buy them large so you can wear an extra pair of socks. Get the warmest mittens you can find, with a windproof outer layer and thick insulation, and mitten-liners if you need more. A balaclava, ski goggles, and helmet-liner are options to keep your face and head warm.

Snow and ice can be a bigger problem. With normal tires, great caution is in order if the streets are not clear. You might keep a second bicycle or spare set of wheels with special studded tires. Streets may be narrowed by ice and plowed snow near the edge – you may need to claim the lane more often.

On the other hand, if a stretch of road is unrideable, you can carry your bicycle, and you never have to shovel it out of a parking space!

Summary

Riding at night is reasonably safe if you equip yourself correctly. Use at least a headlight, taillight, large, bright rear reflector and pedal reflectors or ankle bands. Additional reflectors make you more visible. Brightly colored clothing also helps, as do reflective strips on your baggage, clothing, or helmet.

If you are properly equipped, riding at night is not much different from riding in daylight hours, though some situations are better avoided because of increased risk of physical attack or of a crash.

To ride comfortably in wet weather, you need to equip your bicycle with fenders, and wear rain clothing. Also be aware of the reduced traction and poorer brake performance in wet weather. In cold weather, dress properly and be alert for snow and ice. Equip yourself, use reasonable caution and don’t let messy conditions keep you off your bike.